634 Campbell St.
A harbour seal pops its head out of Clayoquot Sound as wetsuits dry on nearby balconies. Behind a porthole-window-lined space, a wunderkind chef swings between wood-fired pizza, supermarket shrimp rings gone gourmet with delicate Prince Rupert sidestripe shrimp, avocado and lemon aioli, and spongy morels (foraged by his brother and father) dressed with gooey quail eggs and herb oil. The year’s best miso-glazed black cod comes from the west coast, with a whiff of maple and crispy deep-fried tofu.
Photo: Jeremy Koreski